- Remove the clutch fluid
reservoir cap - it is the small reservoir on the
driver side; next to the brake fluid reservoir;
it pulls up rather than twists
- Jack the car up - not
required but it sure makes life easier
- Ensure car is secure and
will not fall on you - need I explain this
further :)
- Locate the clutch bleeder
screw on the driver side of the transmission - it
is on the driver side of the engine support and
is attached to a brass part.
- Place a catch pan under the
assembly - you are about to drain the clutch
fluid
- Loosen and remove the banjo
bolt that is facing forward - not the male flare
fitting that faces the passenger side; take care
to save the copper washers.
- When the fluid has stopped
draining pull the banjo fitting away and look
inside the bleeder housing - you will see a
"widget" with a small hole in it. This
is part #7, the Valve Plate
- Use the magnet to extract
the Valve Plate and the Valve Plate Spring behind
it (Part #8)
- Put these parts in a safe
place - you might just want them back for some
reason
- Replace the banjo bolt and
the copper washers and torque to 17ft-lbs -
ensure the washers, bolt, and banjo fitting are
free of dirt and debris
- Fill the clutch fluid
reservoir with clean fresh DOT 3/4 fluid - this
alone made the clutch feel better
- Bleed the system as you
would brakes using either the vacuum kit or a
partner
- Top off the fluid to the
"Full" line and replace the reservoir
cap
- Have fun relearning how to
launch :)
You have now removed the clutch
restriction. As a test, press the clutch in and then
rapidly remove your foot. The peddle, unlike before the
mod, will come back up as fast as your foot. Before the
mod there used to be a measurable delay between removing
my foot and the peddle returning to the top position.
Enjoy
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